Saturday, August 13, 2011

Croatian Adventure!

Dear Friends and Family,

Hello from Croatia! My best friend from Northwestern University, Page, and I have been traveling this incredible country now for two weeks! We began in Zagreb and worked our way down the coast to Dubrovnik until our night bus back up to Zagreb where we are now awaiting our flights out tomorrow (August 14th).

It has been a wonderful trip and a very much needed vacation from all the work of Peace Corps life!

Our trip started in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. Zagreb is located inland and has a very Eastern European feel. I like to refer to Krakow as a quaint Prague but I feel like Zagreb is a quaint Krakow. The city is filled with white washed buildings topped by red tiled roofs and just has that feel of old town Eastern Europe. We spent our first full day in the country roaming the narrow city streets filled with both old shops as well as H&Ms and other chain fashion stores. We feasted on a lunch of pasta and pizza at which I first said a phrase which was then repeated multiple times throughout the trip - “We don't have this in Ukraine!” The pizza had artichokes, a delicious treat I have not had in a long time!

Next we traveled to Pula, a city located on the southern tip of the Istria Peninsula in the northwest of Croatia. Pula was once a part of the Roman Empire which is still quite apparent today with the presence of a Roman amphitheater, Roman forum and multiple ruins scattered throughout the city. Being the cheap travelers that we were, we avoided the $8 entrance fee to the amphitheater and instead walked up the street around to the other side and sat ourselves at a cafe with a perfect view down into the amphitheater and had a beer. A delicious alternative! The spot was such a success we had to return the second night bringing with us some new friends we had made at the hostel!

Pula was also the location of one of our favorite beaches. With crystal blue water and small white pebbles, the beaches in Croatia are amazing! Page and I spent the day lying on the beach and swimming in the clear water. The beach also had some really fun toys including an item called the “Iceberg” which is a very large inflatable climbing wall which you can jump off of into the water. It was a bit tough for climbing but proved a fun jump once at the top!

Our next stop in Croatia was a place just down the coast called Zadar. Zadar's Old Town is a small peninsula off of the mainland. Covered in cafes, gelato stands and street entertainers, Zadar proved to be a fun stop on our trip! The city also hosts the same white washed walls and red roofs which look beautiful next to the crystal blue water. A fun feature of the water boardwalk is an item called the Sea Organ. Stairs on which patrons can sit also function as a working organ into which water flows pushing air out holes in the pavement making sounds resembling an organ. Page and I brought a bottle of wine with us one evening and sat down to listen to the music of the sea. Quite a classy evening! The beaches outside Zadar were also nice but not as beautiful as Pula.

We made our way further down the coast next to a city called Split. One of the more popular destinations in Croatia, Split offers a gorgeous Old Town along the water front filled with places for both young and old (also known as partying backpackers or calmer locals). The original city walls are now filled with cafes and shops but once held the entire city. Page and I wandered the Old Town and climbed the stairs of the main church tower to see a beautiful view of the whole city from above. The food in Split followed the Mediterranean theme of the rest of the coast of Croatia and we were able to dine on some delicious local fish and seafood risotto! (We don't have that in Ukraine either!) The beach outside Split was beautiful with cliffs rising high above on either side. The water was crystal clear for quite a long distance out and sailboats sailed by as we waded in the water. At night, the main square turns into a place where locals and tourists gather together for live music and dancing. One of the evenings we were in Split we were able to sit and watch the salsa dancing of those brave enough to try their skills in front of the larger crowds. It was a beautiful location sitting under the night lighting of the main church tower!

Following Split we took a ferry to one of the many Croatian islands, Hvar. Hvar used to be the spot of small yachts traveling outside of the mainland. Now it is the spot of massive yachts (our favorite being the “Excellence III”) and tourists coming for the breath taking water and beautiful Old Town center. One of my favorite parts of Hvar was the Venetian Fortress which rests at the top of the hill overlooking the town and harbor. Following a short hike to the top (through a forrest filled with the wonderful fragrance of pine!) we were able to take in the view of all the boats, the sidewalks covered in tourists and the many roofs also in the color red. The water sparkled and the rocks lining the water front glistened with the waves crashing upon them. We spent our second day on the island laying on the rocks and jumping into the water. Our spot proved to be a little dangerous as waves made by larger boats crashed up over the payment soaking our towels and at one point washing away our flip flops (which were luckily recovered!). However, our spot lay just beside one of the most popular bars on the island - “Hula Hula” at which Page and I enjoyed a Piña Colada and Peach Daiquiri! Delicious!

Following Hvar we sailed back to the mainland and bused it down to our last stop – Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik, located at the southern tip of Croatia, has a spectacular Old Town enclosed by a very sturdy wall which tourists pay to walk around. Page and I chose a spot on the outside of the wall for our afternoon sunbathings and were able to jump into more crystal clear water (if you haven't gotten it by this point – we spent a lot of time on the beaches! And by my comments you can believe that the beaches were amazing and yes you should go to Croatia!) The Old Town of Dubrovnik offered similar Eastern European feels with churches placed throughout the enclosed walls. The main street of the Old Town was lined in cafes and gelato stands. Luckily for me – one gelato place offered my favorite flavor – Mint Chocolate Chip!! Page and I got ice cream there both nights – it was delicious! We visited one restaurant both days to dine on their freshly caught mussels and fried squid. The seafood of Croatia was so fresh and so delicious. And the restaurant was located right on the wall edge looking into one of the many coves of the mediterranean – a beautiful place to dine!

Page and I took an overnight bus back up to Zagreb where we have spent our last day in Croatia relaxing, eating more and buying a few last souvenirs. It has been an wonderful vacation and this is an incredible country!

As I do not have time to post photos – I am instead pasting the link to my Facebook albums in which you can see all the pictures from each of our cities.

One final comment and extremely exciting update is that I now have an official “Close of Service” date!! November 17th will be my final day as a Peace Corps Volunteer! I will be flying on November 18th to Bangkok where I will meet my friend Sean for a week. We will then travel to China (Shanghai, Nanjing and Beijing) for two weeks after which I will fly back to Minneapolis. I will be state side on December 13th! It has been a crazy but life changing 2 year adventure here in Ukraine! I am looking forward to my last semester at site and will be sure to post one more time before I close my service!

Have a wonderful rest of summer!

Megan



Zagreb, Pula, Zadar, Split, Hvar Pictures

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.875788111465.2351933.2411718&l=9d4d9ffa6d&type=1

Dubrovnik Pictures

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.875812367855.2351946.2411718&l=4050de8d6b&type=1

July is Summer Camp Month!

Dear Friends and Family,

I hope that you are all having a wonderful summer thus far! It has flown by so quickly and I cannot believe we are already in the midst of August! I have two posts I need to write to catch you all up on the wonderful things that I have been doing this summer! The first regards the three amazing camps which I staffed this July. It was a jam packed month in which I traveled around the north east of Ukraine teaching three very different topics to Ukrainian youth. Though it was exhausting (lost my voice twice and was sick for about a week!) it was still incredibly worth it! The youth of Ukraine are so inspiring. Their efforts to learn skills which can change this country for the better are incredible! I enjoyed the camps and would like to tell you just a little bit about each one as well as share some pictures!

The first camp I staffed was Camp Heal which took place the week of July 1st – 8th in the Sumi Oblast. This camp invites talented Ukrainian youth aged 16-22 to discuss such difficult topics as HIV/AIDS, Human Trafficking, Project Development and Management as well as lighter topics such as leadership, volunteerism and team building. Over 20 American Peace Corps Volunteers staffed the week long camp which taught over 70 campers.

Ukraine sadly is the highest HIV infected country in Europe. The percent remains a bit over 1.3% but statistics show that once a country has surpassed 2% infection there is no controlling the exponential spread of the disease. Due to this scary statistic Ukraine, as well as Peace Corps, has taken on progressive measures to educate and prevent the spread of HIV. Through these efforts, camps such as Heal (Human Trafficking Education, Aids/HIV, Leadership) exist.

The week was filled with themed days in which many topics were discussed. We began with HIV/AIDS discussing the biology of the virus, transmission and prevention as well as stereotypes which exist in Ukraine and throughout the world against those living with HIV/AIDS. On our second day we talked about human trafficking. Ukraine is one of the highest targeted countries for human trafficking, sending individuals all around the world to become sex workers, construction workers or to be sold on the black organ market. It is a sad truth but due to the poverty in Ukraine and lack of jobs, many fall easy victim to promises of a better lifestyle abroad. The International Organization for Migration (IOM) has recently developed a hotline from which individuals can call and ask if organizations they wish to work for are legitimate or illegal. Campers were taught to protect themselves when accepting jobs and to inform their friends and families about such hotlines and help services which hope to decrease the number of victims of the human trafficking trade.

Other days of camp offered classes on less demanding topics. Project Planning and Development, a goal of Peace Corps, was taught as well as fundraising for projects, leadership development and volunteerism. Volunteerism is not a “popular” past time in Ukraine yet but is certainly growing. The campers were very excited about their return back home to begin spreading the word of HIV/AIDS and Human Trafficking education through the development of projects and presentations within their schools and communities.

Camp HEAL combined lessons with team competitions and other more traditional camp activities. I helped to lead the dark blue team - “Team Sponge Bob Blue Pants.” The team consisted of a great group of very fun campers who created hilarious skits and worked hard at each of our challenges.

On the Fourth of July we taught the campers the words to the Star Spangled Banner and shot off fireworks. On our last night we made smores using Ukrainian ingredients. These were a hit with the campers who came back for seconds and thirds!

The camp was quite a success. The campers left packed with the knowledge to protect themselves against HIV infection, to keep themselves safe against Human Trafficking and to lead their fellow schoolmates to be responsible and innovative individuals. I was inspired by the level of understanding of each subject which these campers showed! I am very eager to hear about the projects they development and implement in the upcoming fall semester! Check out pictures below of the camp!

Following Camp HEAL I traveled to the Lugansk Oblast farther east where I worked Camp IKNOW. IKNOW doesn't actually stand for anything but this is the Environmental Working Group's camp offered in both the east and the west each summer. IKNOW discusses environmentally themed topics such as “leave no trace,” composting, water shortage and conservation as well as project planning and development. The camp takes place at a camp site where we tent, swim in the river and have lessons in an outdoors shelter. A bit less of the luxury of HEAL which had air conditioning and a pool!

I was very lucky to be able to bring with me two students and a chaperon to Camp IKNOW. Oleg and Jenya are incoming 11th grade students and are my best students in English. They are very energetic and creative and they were excellent campers! Vitalik is a friend of mine who has taught himself English and continues to help his friends teach themselves English. He traveled with my boys to camp and acted as the Ukrainian counterpart at camp.

Throughout the week we had classes in the morning in which the students discussed different environmental topics (all in English) and the afternoon offered time for swimming in the river, playing volleyball and other games and in the evening having team time. I helped co-lead the orange team “Team Ten Carrots.” Vitalik co led the Pink team. Jenya was also on the pink team known as the “Spicy Hamsters.” And Oleg was on the green team - “ Team Green Bananas.” The teams competed in challenges in the evenings which presented environmental themes we had learned throughout the day.

During the camp time, campers had to develop projects which they would implement once they returned back to their home communities. Oleg and Jenya worked hard on an idea to offer movies in Velyka Lepetykha's center park which would fundraise money to purchase items which would be used in a town clean up. With the use of fellow students and the support of the school director and community “Youth and Sport” director, Oleg and Jenya plan to organize clean ups of some of the main town areas such as the river, park and town center. I was so impressed by their enthusiasm and excitement for the project and I look forward to my return to Velyka Lepetykha so that we may implement this project!

Camp IKNOW gave these students a great chance to practice their English, meet new friends and to hear the ideas of youth from all parts of Ukraine. Oleg and Jenya were great leaders on their teams and were extremely energetic and competitive during all of the competitions. I was so impressed by their efforts and I'm looking forward to one final semester of English with them!

My last camp was ABC Camp – a camp which I staffed last summer. ABC is located in Kharkiv and runs for two weeks offering classes on sharing culture, art and theater, as well as project development and management to students of the Kharkiv region ages 14-18. The students who come to ABC camp are overly enthusiastic, remarkably skilled at English and so resourceful. The camp is staffed by both Ukrainians and Americans allowing both cultures to come together to inspire the future leaders of Ukraine. The two weeks are filled with team competitions and challenges on top of classes and evening social events. Dress up days filled the schedule with such fun ones as Science Fiction, team color, Hollywood, Mafia and Hippie days. I co lead the Red Team - “Team Flying Tomatoes!” Though we did not come in first this year, we worked really hard and won a number of the dress up day challenges and the song presentations. My team was great and the students worked really hard at all aspects of camp!

This year a new part was added to ABC called PBC – Projects Bring Change. A group of returning campers were selected to complete an intensive project planning class which at the end of the first week presented a completed grant application to a small committee of staff members and then completed a full scale project during camp time. The effort that these students put into the class and the projects was incredible. Peace Corps hopes to inspire small scale projects within the communities where volunteers work and PBC was exactly the skill providing program which hoped to instil this drive to volunteer and project develop within the youth of Ukraine! The project the students decided to implement was a makeover of the American Center in Kharkiv. The PBC campers organized the rest of the camp in the project's implementation – not a small challenge! The project was a success and a reopening ceremony for the center took place during the camp to show all the efforts the campers had placed in the project.

Just like last year – ABC was one of my favorite experiences of my Peace Corps experience. The campers are just so dedicated to the camp and so eager to learn all that they can take in in two weeks. I taught about Brazil during sharing cultures and threw at the campers all I could find from Rio de Janeiro Carnival to the problem with the favelas (slum towns) in Brazil. The two weeks ended in a debate which allowed the students to debate for their country to receive a donation of money for projects – the countries were South Africa, Cambodia and Iran aside from Brazil. The students used their arsenals of knowledge and one debate ended in allotting the money to South Africa while the second debate split the money amongst the countries.

It was hard to say goodbye to the campers this year at ABC as I was not able to fall back on “see you next summer.” The students' efforts will continue to show in coming years as they work on projects in their own communities. I am so glad I was able to participate again this year in such an amazing camp!

July was a crazy mess of camps! As I said I lost my voice twice, got sick for a week while at IKNOW and was completely sleep deprived but it was an incredible experience! Ukraine youth have so much to offer their country and through these camps we have been able to provide them the skills to create this change. Through leadership, volunteerism and project planning classes, I hope that these youth feel prepared to organize their fellow peers to enact change in their communities!

Following the month of camps I headed to Kiev for my flight to Croatia – a very much needed relaxation break! I will be sure to write you about how these two weeks in Croatia have gone! But I will say for now – it is an incredible country and a very beautiful one! I'll share pictures soon! For now – enjoy the ones from camp!

Have a great rest of summer,

Megan


Pictures below are from Camp HEAL, IKNOW and ABC Camp